A Step Forward

2/10/12

A great surprise for many Bozeman residents was found this morning.  Snow and cold! The skiers are happy and the ice climbers, well we're happy for the skiers (ice climbing sounds cold and I'll assure you it can be, but it is however not so bad when its 45 and sunny).  With the new snow and cold temperatures, it was decided a trip into Hyalite to climb some ice was necessary.  After a morning of classes, my buddy Josh and I loaded up the trusty Tacoma and we were headed to the hills for some climbing.  For both of us it had been awhile since we were on ice, so the level of excitement was high.  Upon arrival we decided it was a good day to climb Mummy 2.

Mummy 2 and Snow in the Sky

It was agreed upon that we would do this climb in two smaller pitches about 20 meters, compared to one long pitch totaling about 40 meters.

Mummy 2 February 2012

One of the many goals of the climb was to work on some multi-pitch techniques, and the two pitch approach would allow it.  Josh was on the first lead sending it in style. Two vertical sections joined by a flatter section made up the first pitch.  Smooth climbing, a few screw placements, and some good sticks in the ice brought him to an area suitable to set up a belay station.

First Pitch

After spending a few minutes at the belay station a yell came from above that I was "On Belay", once I double checked everything I started climbing.  I followed Josh's path cleaning the screws and made my way toward him to switch leads.  Once we talked for a minute and double checked our gear, I started my lead of the second pitch.  At the start the pitch was mellow and little gear was needed.  The climb progressively continued to get steeper quick and I soon found myself on a vertical hollow curtain.  Most axe swings and screws traveled through the ice much easier than I would have liked.

Second Pitch (Photo Josh)

Once the curtain was climbed, the next move was an awkward transition to a final section of ice before the top out.  To say the least lessons were learned on the transition, from there a scramble to the chains was the final obstacle.  Upon arrival I unfortunately was met with the most insane case of the screaming barfies.  A quick 5 minute mental battle between the nerves in my fingers, my stomach, and my brain left me yelling "On Belay" to Josh.  He made quick work climbing and cleaning the second pitch and in no time was at the anchors passing a high five for the epic climb we both just had.  The rope was coiled, gear was cleaned, and  a short hike left us at the top of a very steep gully directly above the Sceptor. Avalanche concerns and the ominous weather aided in the decision to rappel down onto the rappel anchors instead of an unprotected awkward scramble down unstable rock/snow.

Rappelling the gully above the Sceptor 

Once the rappel anchors were reached a quick two person rope coil was conducted to find the mid-point and we both dropped off the edge of the cliff back to reality.  Once on the ground high fives were passed and we geared up for the approach out and the cans of Olympia waiting for us.  On the drive out  we noticed a fire burning and stopped by to warm up and enjoy the great night.

Days Reward (Photo Josh)

Some stories were passed between us and the two travelers from Jackson.  After we finished our beers we got in the truck and headed back to reality.  All in all a great safe day playing in the mountains!

Notes/Lessons Learned 
-Leave extra time for descents and make sure someone in the party has a headlamp with them.
-Ice may seem steeper than it appears.
-Never underestimate how terrible screaming barfies can feel.
-Always cary V-threading supplies on rappels in case of the need to make a makeshift anchor.
-Finally after talks with the guys from Jackson, always be thankful to live in Bozeman because this is one bad ass town!

Kyle